How Many Fence Pickets Do I Need? Complete Material Guide

Planning a fence project? Running out of pickets mid-build means another trip to the lumberyard, and overspending means wasted materials sitting in your garage. This guide shows you exactly what you need.

The Quick Answer

For 100 linear feet of 6-foot privacy fence with 8-foot post spacing:

• Posts needed: 13 posts (every 8 feet + 1 end post)
• Pickets needed: 218 pickets (5.5” wide boards at 1/2” gap)
• Rails needed: 26 rails (2 per section × 13 sections)
• Concrete needed: 26 bags (2 bags per post)
• Cost estimate: $1,200 to $1,800 (materials only)

For 50 linear feet: 7 posts, 109 pickets, 13 rails, 14 bags concrete.

For 200 linear feet: 26 posts, 436 pickets, 52 rails, 52 bags concrete.

The Formula

Fence material calculation breaks down into three components: posts, pickets, and concrete.

Post Count Formula

Posts = (Fence Length ÷ Post Spacing) + 1

The “+1” accounts for the final end post because you always need one more post than the number of sections.

Picket Count Formula

Pickets = (Fence Length × 12) ÷ (Board Width + Gap Width)

• Multiply length by 12 to convert feet to inches
• Add gap width to board width for total spacing
• This gives you total pickets needed

Rails Formula

Rails = Number of Sections × Rails per Section

• Privacy fences: 2–3 rails per section
• Picket fences: 2 rails per section
• Shadowbox: 3 rails per section

Fence Length Reference Chart

Property Perimeter	Back Fence Only	Side Fence (One)	Full Backyard
Small lot (1/8 acre)	40 ft	60 ft	120 ft
Standard (1/4 acre)	50 ft	75 ft	150 ft
Medium (1/3 acre)	60 ft	90 ft	180 ft
Large (1/2 acre)	75 ft	110 ft	220 ft
Estate (1 acre)	100 ft	150 ft	300 ft

Measure your actual fence line. Property lines rarely match these estimates exactly.

Fence Style Material Differences

Different fence styles require dramatically different material quantities even for the same linear footage.

Privacy Fence (6-foot tall)

Materials per 8-foot section:

• Posts: 1 (4×4 treated, 8 feet long)
• Pickets: 17 to 18 boards (5.5” wide with 1/2” gap)
• Rails: 2 (2×4 treated, 8 feet long)
• Concrete: 2 bags (50 lb each)

Characteristics:

• Pickets touch or have minimal gap
• Blocks all visibility
• Requires more lumber than any other style

Best for: Privacy, noise reduction, security

Picket Fence (4-foot tall)

Materials per 8-foot section:

• Posts: 1 (4×4 treated, 6 feet long)
• Pickets: 10 to 12 boards (3.5” wide with 3” gap)
• Rails: 2 (2×4 treated, 8 feet long)
• Concrete: 1.5 bags (50 lb each)

Characteristics:

• Decorative, not functional privacy
• Wide gaps between pickets
• Uses less lumber (50% fewer pickets than privacy)

Best for: Front yards, property line marking, curb appeal

Shadowbox (6-foot tall)

Materials per 8-foot section:

• Posts: 1 (4×4 treated, 8 feet long)
• Pickets: 34 to 36 boards (5.5” wide, overlapping both sides)
• Rails: 3 (2×4 treated, 8 feet long)
• Concrete: 2 bags (50 lb each)

Characteristics:

• Pickets alternate sides for offset pattern
• Requires double the pickets of standard privacy fence
• Requires 3 rails instead of 2 for stability

Best for: Wind resistance, semi-privacy, high-end appearance

Post Spacing Guidelines

Post spacing affects structural integrity and material costs. Wider spacing = fewer posts but weaker fence.

6-Foot Spacing

Pros:

• Maximum posts = highest material cost
• Strongest fence structure
• Best for heavy gates or uneven terrain

Cons:

• 17 to 20% more posts than 8-foot spacing
• More labor to install posts

Use when: Installing gates, dealing with slopes, or building in high-wind areas

8-Foot Spacing (Standard)

Pros:

• Industry standard for residential fences
• Good balance of strength and cost
• Lumber comes in 8-foot lengths (no waste)

Cons:

• None (this is the default for good reason)

Use when: Flat ground, standard residential fence, no special conditions

10-Foot Spacing

Pros:

• 20% fewer posts than 8-foot spacing
• Lower material cost

Cons:

• Weaker fence. Rails can sag between posts
• Not suitable for gates or corners
• May violate local building codes

Use when: Decorative picket fences on flat ground only (never for privacy fences)

Calculating Rails and Pickets

Rails are the horizontal boards that connect posts and hold pickets. Picket count depends on board width and desired gap.

Rails per Section

Fence Height	Rails Needed	Spacing
3 to 4 feet	2 rails	Top and bottom
5 to 6 feet	2 to 3 rails	Top, middle, bottom
8 feet	3 rails	Evenly spaced thirds

Three rails provide better picket stability and prevent warping. Two rails work for shorter fences.

Pickets per Section Example

For an 8-foot section with 5.5-inch pickets and 1/2-inch gaps:

1. Section length = 8 feet = 96 inches
2. Picket + gap = 5.5 + 0.5 = 6 inches total spacing
3. Pickets needed = 96 ÷ 6 = 16 pickets

For 3.5-inch pickets with 3-inch gaps (picket fence):

1. Section length = 96 inches
2. Picket + gap = 3.5 + 3 = 6.5 inches total spacing
3. Pickets needed = 96 ÷ 6.5 = 15 pickets

For shadowbox (both sides): Multiply by 2 = 32 pickets per section.

Common Picket Widths

Board Type	Actual Width	Nominal Size
1×4	3.5 inches	”Four-inch”
1×6	5.5 inches	”Six-inch”
1×8	7.25 inches	”Eight-inch”

Lumber “nominal” sizes (1×6, 1×4) are larger than actual dimensions after planing. Always use actual width in calculations.

Post Depth and Concrete Requirements

Posts must extend deep enough to resist frost heave and provide structural support. The standard rule is the “one-third rule.”

The One-Third Rule

Post depth = Fence height ÷ 3

• 4-foot fence: 16-inch hole (minimum)
• 6-foot fence: 24-inch hole
• 8-foot fence: 32-inch hole

Round up to the nearest 6 inches for easier digging with standard auger bits (18”, 24”, 30”, 36”).

Frost Line Considerations

In cold climates, post holes must extend below the frost line to prevent heaving. Frost depth varies by region:

Region	Frost Depth	Minimum Post Hole
Southern states	0 to 12 inches	18 inches
Mid-Atlantic	18 to 24 inches	24 inches
Midwest	30 to 36 inches	36 inches
Northern states	42 to 48 inches	48 inches

Check your local building code. Fence inspectors will fail posts that don’t meet frost depth requirements.

Concrete Bags per Post

Post hole diameter affects concrete quantity. Standard residential fence posts use 4×4 treated lumber in 10–12 inch diameter holes.

Concrete needed per post:

Hole Depth	Hole Diameter	Bags per Post
18 inches	10 inches	1 bag (50 lb)
24 inches	10 inches	1.5 bags
24 inches	12 inches	2 bags
30 inches	12 inches	2.5 bags
36 inches	12 inches	3 bags

Round up to the nearest half-bag. Extra concrete is cheap insurance because you can’t add more after it sets.

Post Length Calculation

Total post length = Fence height + Hole depth + 2 inches

The extra 2 inches ensures the post sits slightly above ground level for drainage.

Examples:

• 6-foot fence with 24-inch hole = 6 + 2 + 0.17 = 8.17 feet. Buy 8-foot posts
• 4-foot fence with 18-inch hole = 4 + 1.5 + 0.17 = 5.67 feet. Buy 6-foot posts

Lumber comes in 6’, 8’, 10’, and 12’ lengths. Always buy the next size up.

Pro Tips from Fence Contractors

1. Order 10% Extra Pickets

Lumber quality varies. You’ll cull boards with excessive knots, cracks, or warping. The 10% buffer covers:

• Rejected boards at the lumberyard
• Installation mistakes (mis-cuts, split ends)
• Future repairs (keeping extras in the garage)

For 218 pickets, order 240 (round up to the next bundle).

2. Set Corner and Gate Posts First

Corner posts and gate posts carry more load than line posts. Best practices:

• Use 6×6 posts for gates (instead of 4×4)
• Set these posts 48 hours before line posts
• Use 3 bags of concrete per corner/gate post
• Install temporary bracing to keep posts plumb while concrete cures

Get corners right, and the rest is just connecting dots.

3. String Line Method for Straight Fences

After corner posts set, run mason’s string from post to post at the exact fence height. This gives you:

• Perfect alignment reference for setting line posts
• Visual guide for panel height during installation
• Ability to spot low spots that need grading

Pro fences are straight because of string lines, not eyeballing.

4. Buy Pickets in Full Bundles

Fence pickets are sold in bundles of 25 to 50 boards. Buying loose boards costs 20 to 30% more per board.

Calculate total pickets, divide by bundle size, round up. Example:

• Need 218 pickets
• Bundles contain 50 boards
• 218 ÷ 50 = 4.36. Buy 5 bundles (250 boards)

The 32-board surplus becomes your repair stock.

5. Pre-Drill Picket Nail Holes Near Ends

Nailing pickets without pre-drilling causes splits, especially near board ends. This ruins boards and wastes time.

Pre-drill pilot holes:

• 1/16” smaller than nail diameter
• 1 to 2 inches from top and bottom of each picket
• Use a drill stop collar to prevent drilling through

10 minutes of drilling per section saves hours of replacing split boards.

6. Stain or Seal Before Installation

Once the fence is up, you can only stain one side at a time. Boards swell and shrink, creating unstained gaps.

Pre-finishing boards:

• Lay pickets flat on sawhorses
• Spray or roll stain on all sides
• Let dry 24 hours
• Install pre-finished boards

The fence looks better immediately and lasts 2 to 3 years longer before needing re-staining.

Common Fence Building Mistakes

1. Not Checking Property Lines

Scenario: You build a beautiful 6-foot privacy fence 2 feet inside what you think is your property line. Survey reveals your fence is actually 1 foot into your neighbor’s yard.

Result: You’re legally required to move or remove the fence at your expense. Total loss of materials and labor.

Fix: Pay $300 to $500 for a property survey before digging the first hole. Some cities offer free corner stake services.

2. Ignoring Setback Requirements

Scenario: You build a fence right on the property line. City code requires 6-inch setback from property lines for fences over 4 feet tall.

Result: Building inspector red-tags your fence. You tear it down and rebuild 6 inches inside the line.

Fix: Check local fence ordinances before buying materials. Setbacks, height limits, and sight triangle rules vary by city.

3. Setting All Posts at Once

Scenario: You dig all 20 post holes in one day, set all posts in concrete, then realize the line is crooked or posts aren’t plumb.

Result: The concrete has already set, so posts can’t be adjusted. The fence is permanently crooked.

Fix: Set posts in groups of 3 to 4. Let each group cure 24 hours. This allows course correction if you notice alignment issues.

4. Forgetting Utility Locate

Scenario: You’re 18 inches into digging a post hole when your auger hits the gas line.

Result: Ruptured gas line. Fire department called. $5,000+ repair bill. Possible evacuation of surrounding homes.

Fix: Call 811 at least 2 days before digging. Utility locate is free and legally required. They’ll mark underground lines with flags.

5. Buying Untreated Lumber for Ground Contact

Scenario: You save $2 per post by buying standard pressure-treated lumber instead of “ground contact” rated lumber.

Result: Posts rot at ground level within 2 to 3 years, the fence collapses, and you rebuild from scratch.

Fix: Buy lumber rated for “ground contact” or “UC4B” for any wood touching soil. The $20 to $40 premium saves thousands in repairs.

Property Line and Setback Rules

Fence regulations vary significantly by municipality. Violating these can result in fines, forced removal, or neighbor lawsuits.

Height Restrictions

Most cities follow this pattern:

• Front yard: 3 to 4 feet maximum (often must be 50% open like picket fences)
• Side yard: 6 feet maximum
• Back yard: 6 to 8 feet maximum

Commercial properties and corner lots have additional restrictions. Verify with your local building department.

Setback Requirements

Setback = required distance between fence and property line.

Common requirements:

• 0 to 6 inches from side/back property lines
• 10 to 25 feet from front property line (creates front yard)
• 20 to 30 feet from street corner (sight triangle for traffic safety)

Building on the property line requires neighbor consent in most jurisdictions. Building 6 inches inside your line avoids this.

Shared Fence Etiquette

When building a fence on a shared property line:

1. Talk to neighbors first - Show them plans, discuss aesthetics
2. Offer the “good side” - Pickets facing their yard (rails facing you)
3. Split costs - If they agree to share the fence
4. Get it in writing - Handshake agreements fail when houses sell

If the neighbor refuses to share costs, build the fence 6 inches inside your property line. You maintain full control.

HOA Restrictions

Homeowner associations often impose stricter rules than city codes:

• Approved materials (no chain link, must be wood or vinyl)
• Specific colors (white, natural wood, earth tones only)
• Maximum height (often 6 feet regardless of city code)
• Front yard fence prohibition
• Architectural review board approval required

Check your HOA covenants before designing the fence. Violations can result in fines of $100 to $500 per day until corrected.

Cost Breakdown Example

For 100 linear feet of 6-foot privacy fence with 8-foot post spacing:

Item	Quantity	Unit Cost	Total
4×4 posts (8 ft)	13 posts	$12	$156
Fence pickets (1×6×6)	240 boards	$3.50	$840
Rails (2×4×8)	30 rails	$6	$180
Concrete (50 lb bags)	26 bags	$4.50	$117
Gate hardware	1 set	$40	$40
Hinges & latch	2 hinges, 1 latch	$25	$25
Nails/screws	5 lb box	$18	$18
Post hole gravel	10 bags	$4	$40
Total Materials			$1,416

Add 10% contingency for price fluctuations, damaged boards: $1,558 total.

Labor (if hiring): $15 to $30 per linear foot = $1,500 to $3,000 additional.

Using the Fence Calculator

For complex fence layouts (L-shaped yards, multiple gates, mixed heights), use our fence calculator to:

• Input exact fence length and height
• Select post spacing (6, 8, or 10 feet)
• Choose fence style (privacy, picket, shadowbox)
• Set picket width and gap spacing
• Get instant material counts for posts, pickets, rails, and concrete
• Calculate total project cost with local lumber prices

The calculator automatically handles partial sections, rounds to bundle quantities, and adds appropriate waste factors.

Final Checklist

Before you buy materials:

• Measured fence line length (account for slopes, corners, gates)
• Checked property survey or ordered boundary survey
• Verified local fence height limits and setback requirements
• Checked HOA restrictions (if applicable)
• Called 811 for utility locate (wait 2–3 days for marking)
• Selected fence style (privacy, picket, shadowbox)
• Determined post spacing (6, 8, or 10 feet)
• Calculated posts, pickets, rails, and concrete
• Added 10% to picket count for waste/repairs
• Verified lumber is rated for ground contact (UC4B)
• Rounded concrete to nearest half-bag per post
• Budgeted for gate hardware if needed
• Scheduled delivery or trailer rental for lumber haul

Frequently Asked Questions

How many pickets do I need for 100 feet of fence?

For 100 linear feet of 6-foot privacy fence using 5.5-inch wide boards with 1/2-inch gaps, you need 200 pickets minimum. Add 10% waste (20 boards) = 220 pickets total. This assumes 8-foot post spacing with 12 sections (13 posts). Shadowbox style doubles this to 400 pickets because boards go on both sides. Always buy full bundles: round 220 up to 250 if bundles contain 50 boards.

Should I use 6-foot or 8-foot post spacing for a privacy fence?

Use 8-foot spacing for standard residential privacy fences on flat ground. This is the industry standard because lumber comes in 8-foot lengths (no waste), provides adequate strength, and minimizes material costs. Use 6-foot spacing only when installing heavy gates, dealing with steep slopes, or building in high-wind areas. Never use 10-foot spacing for privacy fences because rails will sag between posts.

How deep should fence posts be buried?

Fence posts should be buried at a depth equal to one-third of the fence height, with a minimum of 18 inches. For a 6-foot fence, dig 24-inch holes. In cold climates, posts must extend below the frost line (check local codes). This can be 36–48 inches in northern states. Use 2 bags of 50-pound concrete per 24-inch hole with a 12-inch diameter. Posts set too shallow will lean or fall over within 1–2 years.

Do I need permits to build a fence?

Permit requirements vary by municipality. Most cities require permits for fences over 6 feet tall or fences in front yards. Permits typically cost $50–150 and involve a simple plan review. You always need permits when building near easements, flood zones, or on corner lots (sight triangle restrictions). Check with your local building department before starting because building without required permits can result in fines and forced fence removal.

Can I use regular pressure-treated lumber for fence posts?

No. You need pressure-treated lumber specifically rated for “ground contact” (marked UC4B or .60 retention level). Regular pressure-treated lumber is rated for “above ground” use only and will rot within 2 to 3 years when buried in soil. Ground contact lumber costs $2 to $4 more per post but lasts 15 to 20 years. For pickets and rails that don’t touch ground, regular pressure-treated (UC3B or .40 retention) is sufficient and cheaper.

Use our fence calculator to verify your material counts and ensure you order exactly what you need. No shortages, no excess.